🔗 Share this article

When compiling a list of London’s finest dining spots, one might anticipate familiar award-winning names. However, tucked near the top among these food titans is a simple salonu found in a distant area of north London.

A Surprise Recognition

This compact Turkish restaurant, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a prominent food magazine. This honour has left the proprietors completely astonished.

“I am completely surprised,” remarks the family member, alluding to his family’s dedication that led to their small place securing such a high spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

The compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing food hotspot, has retained much of its former character. It fits just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking display, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” comments the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this establishment definitely delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then tossed into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. As the meaty mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is often enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than usual, imparting it a deeper, nuttier and less sickly flavour.

Rising Above the Giants

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, similar experiences at top-tier establishments can cost many times that price.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is echoed by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to show what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Dedication

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at elite establishments. “I feel truly proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she had a life outside work but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

A Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to echo outside its own doors. “I think many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the wider importance of this gastronomic honour.